5.10 Anasazi Vcs Vs Scarpa Instinct Vs
Climbing Shoes: 5.10 Anasazi VCS vs Scarpa Instinct vs
Climbing shoes are the most important piece of equipment for any climber. When it comes to choosing the right climbing shoe, the process can be overwhelming. There are numerous factors to consider when making the decision, such as fit, type of climbing, sole stiffness, shape, closure system, materials, price, personal preference, toe box shape, heel cup, weight, and level of ventilation. The 5.10 Anasazi VCS, Scarpa Instinct, and the La Sportiva Otaki are some of the most popular climbing shoes on the market. In this article, we’ll compare these three shoes and discuss each of the key factors to help you choose the best shoe for you.
| 5.10 Anasazi VCS | Scarpa Instinct | La Sportiva Otaki | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fit | Low Volume | Medium Volume | Medium Volume |
| Stiffness | Medium | Stiff | Soft |
| Shape | Flat | Asymmetric | Neutral |
| Closure | Laces | Velcro | Laces and Velcro |
| Materials | Leather | Synthetic | Leather & Synthetic |
| Price | $120-$160 | $130-$170 | $140-$180 |
| Ventilation | Good | Excellent | Good |
Fit
Climbing shoes should fit snugly, but not too tightly. The 5.10 Anasazi VCS has a low-volume fit which means it has a tight fit, making it ideal for those with narrow feet. The Scarpa Instinct has a medium-volume fit which is suitable for those with medium-width feet. The La Sportiva Otaki has a medium-volume fit as well, making it suitable for those with wider feet.
When it comes to fit, it’s important to try on the shoes before you buy them. Make sure they don’t pinch your toes or slip off your feet when you’re climbing. Most importantly, make sure the shoes fit your feet comfortably and securely.
When it comes to heel tension, the 5.10 Anasazi VCS has a moderate heel tension which ensures it stays on your feet during steep climbing. The Scarpa Instinct has a low heel tension, making it ideal for long routes. The La Sportiva Otaki has a medium heel tension, making it suitable for all-round climbing.
Type of Climbing
The type of climbing you do will have an impact on which shoe is the best for you. The 5.10 Anasazi VCS is designed for technical climbing, with its flat profile and stiff midsole providing excellent edging power. The Scarpa Instinct is designed for sport climbing, with its curved profile and symmetrical shape allowing for powerful toe-hooks and heel-hooks. The La Sportiva Otaki is designed for multi-pitch and big wall climbing, with its high-volume fit and soft midsole providing the perfect combination of comfort and power.
Sole Stiffness
The sole stiffness of a climbing shoe is one of the most important factors to consider. The 5.10 Anasazi VCS has a medium-stiff sole which is slightly flexible, making it ideal for edging and smearing. The Scarpa Instinct has a stiff sole which provides great edging power, making it suitable for steep and technical climbing. The La Sportiva Otaki has a soft sole which provides good grip on surfaces and makes it great for smearing, making it suitable for multi-pitch and big wall climbing.
Shape
The shape of a climbing shoe is also important. The 5.10 Anasazi VCS has a flat profile which is suitable for technical and edging. The Scarpa Instinct has an asymmetric curved profile which makes it ideal for toe-hooks and heel-hooks. The La Sportiva Otaki has a neutral profile which is suitable for all types of climbing.
Closure System
The closure system used in a climbing shoe is also important. The 5.10 Anasazi VCS features a lace-up closure system which provides a snug and secure fit. The Scarpa Instinct features a Velcro closure system which allows for quick and easy adjustments on the go. The La Sportiva Otaki features a combination of a lace-up system and a Velcro closure system, providing a secure fit with easy adjustments.
Materials
The materials used in a climbing shoe will also have an impact on the performance of the shoe. The 5.10 Anasazi VCS is constructed with leather, making it durable and breathable. The Scarpa Instinct is constructed with synthetic materials which provide a snug fit and good support. The La Sportiva Otaki is constructed with a combination of leather and synthetic materials, making it lightweight, breathable, and durable.
Price
The price of a climbing shoe will also be a factor to consider. The 5.10 Anasazi VCS is typically priced between $120 and $160. The Scarpa Instinct is usually priced between $130 and $170. The La Sportiva Otaki is usually priced between $140 and $180.Personal Preference
At the end of the day, it is important to consider your personal preference when choosing a climbing shoe. Some climbers prefer a stiffer sole, while others prefer a softer sole. Some climbers prefer a low-volume fit, while others prefer a medium-volume fit. You should also consider your climbing style and the type of climbing you do.
Toe Box Shape
The toe box shape of a climbing shoe is also important. The 5.10 Anasazi VCS has a slightly downturned toe box which allows for technical climbing and precision edging. The Scarpa Instinct has a slightly curved toe box which allows for toe-hooks and heel-hooks. The La Sportiva Otaki has a slightly downturned toe box which is suitable for all types of climbing.
Heel Cup
The heel cup of a climbing shoe is also important. The 5.10 Anasazi VCS has a moderate heel cup which provides a secure fit and prevents slipping. The Scarpa Instinct has a moderate heel cup which allows for heel-hooks and provides a secure fit. The La Sportiva Otaki has a low-volume heel cup which provides a snug fit and prevents slipping.
Weight
The weight of a climbing shoe is also important. The 5.10 Anasazi VCS is relatively lightweight, making it ideal for technical climbing. The Scarpa Instinct is lightweight, making it suitable for all-round climbing. The La Sportiva Otaki is slightly heavier than the other two shoes, making it a better choice for long routes and multi-pitch climbing.
Level of Ventilation
The level of ventilation in a climbing shoe is also important. The 5.10 Anasazi VCS has good breathability, making it suitable for warm weather climbing. The Scarpa Instinct has excellent breathability, making it suitable for all types of climbing. The La Sportiva Otaki has good breathability, making it suitable for all types of climbing.
In conclusion, when it comes to choosing the right climbing shoe, it’s important to consider all the factors such as fit, type of climbing, sole stiffness, shape, closure system, materials, price, personal preference, toe box shape, heel cup, weight, and level of ventilation. The 5.10 Anasazi VCS, Scarpa Instinct, and La Sportiva Otaki are all excellent choices for climbers of all levels. The choice of which one to buy ultimately comes down to personal preference and the type of climbing you do.