Evolv Oracle Vs Scarpa Drago

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One of the greatest debates among climbers is which rock climbing shoe is the best: the Evolv Oracle or the Scarpa Drago. Both shoes offer a range of features to help improve the performance of climbers of all levels. The Oracle and Drago are two of the most popular climbing shoes on the market, and they both provide excellent performance on a variety of surfaces. Both shoes have a similar fit and are designed for edging and precision. However, there are certain features that set them apart and make them better suited for certain types of climbing. Let’s take a look at the features of the Evolv Oracle and the Scarpa Drago.

Feature Evolv Oracle Scarpa Drago
Fit Slightly wider More snug
Type of Climbing Technical Steep overhangs
Sole Stiffness Slightly stiffer Softer
Shape Asymmetrical Symmetrical
Closure System 2 velcro straps 3 velcro straps
Materials Full leather Perforated & non-perforated leather
Price More expensive Less expensive
Toe Box Shape Medium downturn Slight downturn
Heel Cup Deeper Shallower
Weight Slightly heavier Lighter
Ventilation Full leather Perforated leather

Fit

The Evolv Oracle and Scarpa Drago both have a snug fit that is designed to keep your foot locked in place. The Oracle has a slightly wider fit, allowing for more wiggle room and comfort. The Drago has a more snug fit, allowing for more precision and control when edging on small holds. The Oracle has a slightly lower profile than the Drago, providing a more relaxed, comfortable fit.

Type of Climbing

The Oracle and Drago are both designed for edging and precision on small holds. The Oracle is better suited for technical climbing with small footholds and slabs, while the Drago is better suited for steep overhangs and steeper routes. The Oracle has a slightly more aggressive downturn than the Drago, making it better suited for technical climbing.

Sole Stiffness

The Oracle and the Drago both have a moderate sole stiffness, making them great for edging on small holds and pockets. The Oracle is slightly stiffer than the Drago, making it better suited for edging on slabs and overhangs. The Drago is slightly softer, making it better suited for smearing and tackling steep terrain.

Shape

The Oracle has a slightly asymmetrical shape, allowing for better precision on small edges. The Drago has a more symmetrical shape, allowing for better performance on slabs and steep overhangs. The Oracle has a medium downturn, providing a balance between edging and smearing. The Drago has a slight downturn, providing a more relaxed fit and better performance on slabs and pockets.

Closure System

The Oracle and the Drago both have a velcro closure system, allowing for a secure fit. The Oracle has two velcro straps, while the Drago has three velcro straps. The two straps on the Oracle provide a secure fit, while the three straps on the Drago allow for a more customized fit.

Materials

The Oracle and Drago are both made of leather, providing excellent performance, durability, and comfort. The Oracle has a full leather construction, while the Drago has a combination of perforated and non-perforated leather. The perforated leather on the Drago provides excellent breathability, while the full leather construction on the Oracle provides superior performance and durability.

Price

Both the Oracle and the Drago are reasonably priced and offer excellent value for the money. The Oracle is slightly more expensive than the Drago, but it offers superior performance and durability.

Personal Preference

The Evolv Oracle and the Scarpa Drago are both excellent shoes for edging and precision on small holds. The Oracle is better suited for technical climbing and small edges, while the Drago is better suited for slabs and pockets. Ultimately, your personal preference should determine which shoe is best for you.

Toe Box Shape

The Oracle and the Drago both have a slightly downturned toe box, providing excellent performance on small edges. The Oracle has a medium downturn, while the Drago has a slight downturn. The Oracle’s toe box shape provides a balance between edging and smearing, while the Drago’s toe box shape provides a more relaxed fit and better performance on slabs and pockets.

Heel Cup

The Oracle and the Drago both have a slightly downturned heel cup, providing excellent performance on small edges. The Oracle has a slightly deeper heel cup, providing a more secure fit, while the Drago has a slightly shallower heel cup, providing a more relaxed fit.

Weight

The Oracle and the Drago both have a light weight, making them great for long routes. The Oracle is slightly heavier than the Drago, but the difference is negligible.

Level of Ventilation

The Oracle and the Drago both have excellent ventilation, thanks to their perforated leather construction. The Drago has a combination of perforated and non-perforated leather, while the Oracle has a full leather construction. The perforated leather on the Drago provides excellent breathability, while the full leather construction on the Oracle provides superior performance and durability.

When choosing between the Evolv Oracle and the Scarpa Drago, it’s important to consider the type of climbing you do and your personal preference. Both shoes are designed for edging and precision on small holds, but they offer different features that make them better suited for certain types of climbing. The Oracle is better suited for technical climbing with small footholds and slabs, while the Drago is better suited for steep overhangs and steeper routes. Ultimately, your personal preference should determine which shoe is best for you.

The Evolv Oracle and the Scarpa Drago are both excellent shoes for edging and precision on small holds. Both shoes offer a snug fit that is designed to keep your foot locked in place and a moderate sole stiffness for edging on small holds. They both offer excellent performance on a variety of surfaces, and they both provide excellent value for the money. Ultimately, the choice between the Oracle and Drago comes down to personal preference and the type of climbing you do.