La Sportiva Finale Vs Genius
| Comparison | La Sportiva Finale | La Sportiva Genius |
|---|---|---|
| Fit | Slightly bigger volume, taller heel cup, thicker, padded midsole | Slimmer fit, lower heel cup, thinner midsole, less padding |
| Type of Climbing | All-around climbing, steep sport climbing, multi-pitch routes | Technical edging, steep sport climbing |
| Sole Stiffness | Moderately stiff midsole, thicker rubber rand | Slightly softer sole, thinner rubber rand |
| Shape | Slightly wider toe box, higher heel cup, steeper angle between heel and toe | Narrower toe box, lower heel cup, more gradual angle between heel and toe |
| Closure System | Thicker, more secure closure system with additional hook-and-loop strap | Thinner, less secure closure system with single hook-and-loop strap |
| Materials | Thicker, softer leather upper, thicker rand, thick, padded midsole | Thinner, stiffer leather upper, thinner rand, thinner, unlined midsole |
| Price | Slightly more expensive | Slightly less expensive |
| Personal Preference | Comfort, support | Performance, sensitivity |
| Toe Box Shape | Wider toe box, higher arch | Narrower toe box, lower arch |
| Heel Cup | Taller heel cup, wider heel cup | Lower heel cup, narrower heel cup |
| Weight | Slightly heavier | Slightly lighter |
| Level of Ventilation | Slightly more ventilation | Slightly less ventilation |
Fit
The La Sportiva Finale and Genius both feature a medium-high asymmetric and downturned last, giving them a precise and snug fit that many climbers prefer. The Finale has a slightly bigger volume and taller heel cup compared to the Genius, making it a better fit for those with wider feet or high-arched feet. The Genius, on the other hand, has a slightly slimmer fit and lower heel cup which is better for those with narrower feet or low-arched feet.
The Finale also has a slightly higher arch compared to the Genius, which is great for those looking for extra support and precision. The Finale has a softer lining and a thicker, padded midsole for added comfort, whereas the Genius has a thinner unlined midsole and is not as padded, making it suitable for those who prefer a more performance-oriented fit.
Type of Climbing
The type of climbing you do will also play a role in deciding which of these shoes is best for you. The La Sportiva Finale is an all-around climbing shoe that excels at steep sport climbing and all-day multi-pitch routes, whereas the La Sportiva Genius is specifically designed for technical edging and steep sport climbing. The Finale has a slightly stiffer sole for more support when standing on small edges, and the Genius has a slightly softer sole for better sensitivity when smearing and edging on small holds.
The Finale is also the better choice if you are looking for comfort, as it has a slightly more padded midsole and softer lining. The Genius is better if you are looking for performance, as it has a slightly thinner midsole and stiffer sole.
Sole Stiffness
When it comes to sole stiffness, the La Sportiva Finale and Genius have slightly different features. The Finale features a moderately stiff midsole and sole that allows for both edging and smearing, while the Genius features a slightly softer sole for better sensitivity and smearing. The Finale also has a slightly thicker midsole for added support, whereas the Genius has a thinner midsole for better sensitivity.
The Finale also has a slightly thicker rubber rand for better toe hooking and edging, whereas the Genius has a slightly thinner rand for better smearing. The Finale has a slightly higher arch than the Genius, making it a better choice for those who need extra support when standing on small edges.
Shape
The La Sportiva Finale and Genius have a similar shape, with a slightly downturned and asymmetrical last that allows for precise and powerful edging. The Finale has a slightly wider toe box and a higher heel cup compared to the Genius, making it a better choice for those with wider feet or higher arches. The Genius has a slightly narrower toe box and lower heel cup, making it better for those with narrow feet or lower arches.
The Finale also has a slightly steeper angle between the heel and the toe which allows for a more secure fit, whereas the Genius has a more gradual angle which gives it a slightly more relaxed fit.
Closure System
Both the La Sportiva Finale and Genius feature a hook-and-loop closure system for easy on and off. The Finale has a thicker, more secure closure system with an additional hook-and-loop strap for a more precise fit, whereas the Genius has a thinner, less secure closure system with a single hook-and-loop strap for a more relaxed fit.
The Finale also has a slightly longer closure system compared to the Genius, making it a better choice for those with higher arches. The Genius has a slightly shorter closure system, making it better for those with lower arches.
Materials
The La Sportiva Finale and Genius are both made with a high-quality leather upper and a rubber midsole and outsole. The Finale has a slightly thicker and softer leather upper for added comfort and durability, whereas the Genius has a slightly thinner and stiffer leather upper for better performance and sensitivity.
The Finale also features a slightly thicker rand for better toe hooking and edging, whereas the Genius has a slightly thinner rand for better smearing. The Finale has an unlined midsole and a slightly thicker, padded midsole for better support and added comfort, whereas the Genius has a thinner, unlined midsole for better sensitivity and performance.
Price
The La Sportiva Finale and Genius are both priced similarly. The Finale is usually slightly more expensive than the Genius, but the difference is not substantial. Both shoes are fairly priced for the quality and performance they offer.Personal Preference
When choosing between the La Sportiva Finale and Genius, it really comes down to personal preference. If you are looking for an all-around climbing shoe with a comfortable fit and good support, the Finale is a great choice. If you are looking for a technical climbing shoe with a performance fit and better sensitivity, the Genius is the better option.
Toe Box Shape
The La Sportiva Finale and Genius both feature an asymmetrical and downturned last, making them suitable for precise edging. The Finale has a slightly wider toe box compared to the Genius, making it a better fit for those with wider feet or higher arches. The Genius has a slightly narrower toe box and is better for those with narrower feet or lower arches.
The Finale also has a slightly higher arch compared to the Genius, making it a better choice for those who need extra support when standing on small edges. The Genius has a slightly lower arch, making it better for those who need a more performance-oriented fit.
Heel Cup
The La Sportiva Finale and Genius both feature a 2mm thick heel cup that provides good support. The Finale has a slightly taller heel cup compared to the Genius, making it a better fit for those with higher arches. The Genius has a slightly lower heel cup, making it better for those with lower arches.
The Finale also has a slightly wider heel cup, making it a better choice for those with wider feet. The Genius has a slightly narrower heel cup, making it better for those with narrower feet.
Weight
The La Sportiva Finale and Genius both weigh about the same. The Finale is slightly heavier due to its padded midsole and wider toe box, whereas the Genius is slightly lighter due to its thinner midsole and narrower toe box.
Level of Ventilation
The La Sportiva Finale and Genius both have a good level of ventilation due to the high-quality leather upper and the unlined midsole. The Finale has slightly more ventilation due to its thicker, padded midsole and softer leather upper. The Genius has slightly less ventilation due to its thinner midsole and stiffer leather upper.
The La Sportiva Finale and Genius are both great climbing shoes, and choosing between them will depend on your individual needs and preferences. The Finale is a great all-around climbing shoe with a comfortable and supportive fit, whereas the Genius is better for those looking for a technical and performance-oriented fit. No matter which shoe you choose, you will be getting a high-quality product that will last you for years.