La Sportiva Otaki Vs Futura
Introduction
Comparing the La Sportiva Otaki and the Futura is no simple task. Both models are excellent shoes that offer a lot of features—from the type of climbing to the sole stiffness and closure system. To make the decision easier, we’ll break down each shoe and compare the two side-by-side.
Let’s start with the fit of the two shoes.
| La Sportiva Otaki | Futura | |
|---|---|---|
| Fit | Aggressive | Snug |
| Type of Climbing | Sport, Bouldering | Sport, Trad |
| Sole Stiffness | Extra Stiff | Soft |
| Shape | Curved | Neutral |
| Closure System | Lacing System | Velcro |
| Materials | Leather, Vibram | Leather, Vibram |
| Price | $170 | $125 |
| Toe Box Shape | Downturned | Neutral |
| Heel Cup | Deep, Asymmetrical | Shallow |
| Weight | 8.7 ounces | 7.8 ounces |
| Level of Ventilation | Excellent | Good |
Fit
The La Sportiva Otaki is close-fitting and slightly aggressive. This means that climbers with wider feet may find the toes a bit more cramped than usual. The shoe also has a relatively deep asymmetrical heel cup. As a result, climbers should expect their toes to sit tighter at the back of the shoe.
The Futura is a slipper-style shoe, meaning that it is designed to be less aggressive and provide a snug fit on the foot. The heel cup is not as deep as the Otaki, but the toe box is a bit roomier. Climbers should find the Futura to be more comfortable and accommodating.
Type of Climbing
The La Sportiva Otaki is best suited for sport climbing and bouldering. The toe-box shape and sole stiffness provide excellent edging power, while the asymmetrical heel cup gives climbers more control when making technical moves.
The Futura is best suited for sport climbing and all-day trad routes. It has a slightly softer sole, giving climbers more sensitivity when feeling for tiny holds. The toe-box shape is also ideal for toe-hooking and smearing.
Sole Stiffness
The La Sportiva Otaki is made with an extra-stiff midsole that provides great power and stability while edging. The sole also offers excellent response when standing on micro-holds and edges.
The Futura has a slightly less stiff midsole, making it ideal for climbers who want more response when standing on small holds. It also has a slightly thicker sole than the Otaki, providing better protection when climbing on rough terrain.
Shape
The La Sportiva Otaki has a curved shape that is designed for maximum edging power. The toe-box is slightly downturned and the heel cup is deep and asymmetrical.
The Futura has a neutral shape with a slightly downturned toe-box. The heel cup is not as deep as the Otaki, but it still provides plenty of support and control.
Closure System
The La Sportiva Otaki is designed with an elastic lacing system that gives climbers a secure fit. The laces are easy to adjust and the heel cup is deep enough to provide plenty of support even when the laces are tight.
The Futura is designed with a single Velcro closure system. This gives climbers more control over the fit, but it is not as secure as the Otaki’s lacing system.
Materials
The La Sportiva Otaki is made with a synthetic leather upper and a Vibram XS Grip 2 sole. The upper is designed to be breathable and comfortable, while the sole provides excellent grip and response.
The Futura is made with a synthetic leather upper and a Vibram XS Edge rubber sole. The upper is designed to be comfortable and breathable, while the sole is made to provide maximum grip and edging power.
Price
The La Sportiva Otaki is more expensive than the Futura. The Otaki is usually priced around $170, while the Futura is usually priced around $125.Personal Preference
When it comes to deciding which of these shoes is best for you, it comes down to personal preference. Climbers who are looking for a performance-oriented shoe should go with the Otaki, while climbers who are looking for a comfortable and all-day trad shoe should go with the Futura.
Toe Box Shape
The La Sportiva Otaki has a slightly downturned toe box that is designed for maximum edging power. The shape also helps climbers when making precise toe-hooks.
The Futura has a neutral toe box with a slightly downturned shape. This shape gives climbers a bit more flexibility when smearing, but it does not provide as much edging power as the Otaki.
Heel Cup
The La Sportiva Otaki has an asymmetrical heel cup that is designed to provide maximum control and support. The cup is deep and provides plenty of support even when the laces are tightened.
The Futura has a slightly shallower heel cup that is designed to provide support and control. The shape of the cup is not as precise as the Otaki’s, but it still offers plenty of support and security.
Weight
The La Sportiva Otaki is a bit heavier than the Futura. The Otaki weighs in at 8.7 ounces, while the Futura weighs in at 7.8 ounces.
Level of Ventilation
The La Sportiva Otaki has breathable mesh panels that help keep your feet cool and comfortable. The Futura also has breathable mesh panels, but they are not as effective as the Otaki’s.
When it comes to deciding between the La Sportiva Otaki and the Futura, the choice really comes down to personal preference. Both shoes offer excellent features for climbers of all levels, from the type of climbing to the shape of the toe-box. The decision will ultimately come down to what type of climbing you plan to do and how much you’re willing to spend. Whichever shoe you choose, you can be sure that you’ll be getting a great pair of shoes that will last you a long time.