La Sportiva Testarossa Vs Instinct Lace
Choosing the Right Climbing Shoe
Comparison Table
| Feature | La Sportiva Testarossa | Instinct Lace |
|---|---|---|
| Fit | High-volume | Low-volume |
| Type of Climbing | Long multi-pitch routes, sport climbing, and bouldering | Sport climbing, bouldering, and gym climbing |
| Sole Stiffness | Stiff | Medium |
| Shape | Downturned | Slightly asymmetrical |
| Closure System | Fast lacing | Lace |
| Materials | Synthetic upper and Vibram XS Edge rubber sole | Synthetic upper and Vibram XS Grip2 rubber sole |
| Price | Around $180 | Around $160 |
| Toe Box Shape | Downturned | Slightly downturned |
| Heel Cup | Medium | Low-volume |
| Weight | 10.6 oz | 8.9 oz |
| Level of Ventilation | Good | Excellent |
Fit
The La Sportiva Testarossa has a high-volume fit and is best suited for climbers with a wider foot. It has a fast lacing system that ensures a secure fit that won’t come undone when climbing. The Instinct Lace, on the other hand, has a low-volume fit and is best suited for climbers with a narrow foot. It has a lace system that allows for a snugger fit and better precision.
Type of Climbing
The La Sportiva Testarossa is best suited for long multi-pitch routes, sport climbing, and bouldering. Its stiff sole, low asymmetry, and downturned shape provide excellent edging and excellent grip on difficult footholds. The Instinct Lace is best suited for sport climbing, bouldering, and gym climbing. Its slightly asymmetrical shape and medium stiffness make it an excellent all-rounder.
Sole Stiffness
The La Sportiva Testarossa has a stiff sole with a slight amount of flex. This makes it great for edging and standing on small footholds. The Instinct Lace has a medium stiffness sole and is more flexible than the Testarossa. This makes it more comfortable for all-day climbing, but does not provide as much edging power.
Shape
The La Sportiva Testarossa has a downturned shape and a low asymmetry that provide great edging. The Instinct Lace has a slightly asymmetrical shape and the toe box is slightly downturned. This provides a comfortable fit and great edging power.
Closure System
The La Sportiva Testarossa has a fast lacing system that ensures a secure fit and won’t come undone when climbing. The Instinct Lace has a lace system that allows for a snugger fit and better precision.
Materials
The La Sportiva Testarossa is constructed with a synthetic upper and a Vibram XS Edge rubber sole. The Instinct Lace is constructed with a synthetic upper and a Vibram XS Grip2 rubber sole.
Price
Personal Preference
At the end of the day, it really comes down to personal preference. The La Sportiva Testarossa is great for long multi-pitch routes and sport climbing, while the Instinct Lace is great for all-around climbing.
Toe Box Shape
The La Sportiva Testarossa has a downturned toe box shape that makes it great for edging and standing on small footholds. The Instinct Lace has a slightly downturned toe box shape that provides a comfortable fit and great edging power.
Heel Cup
The La Sportiva Testarossa has a medium sized heel cup that provides a secure fit. The Instinct Lace has a low-volume heel cup that provides a snug fit.
Weight
The La Sportiva Testarossa weighs in at 10.6 oz, while the Instinct Lace weighs in at 8.9 oz.
Level of Ventilation
The La Sportiva Testarossa has good ventilation that helps keep your feet cool on hot days. The Instinct Lace has excellent ventilation that helps keep your feet cool and dry.
When it comes to choosing the right climbing shoe, there is no one-size-fits-all solution. Many factors come into play, such as the type of climbing, the shape, the sole stiffness, the closure system, the materials, and the price. The La Sportiva Testarossa and the Instinct Lace are both great shoes, and each one has its own advantages and disadvantages. The best way to decide which one is right for you is to try them both on and see which one feels the most comfortable.