Scarpa Chimera Vs Instinct
Introduction
Comparison Table:
| Feature | Scarpa Chimera | Instinct |
|---|---|---|
| Fit | Slipper | Slipper |
| Type of Climbing | Bouldering | All round |
| Sole Stiffness | Soft | Stiff |
| Shape | Asymmetric | Symmetric |
| Closure System | Velcro | Lace-up |
| Materials | Leather | Synthetic |
| Price | $$ | $$ |
| Personal Preference | Yes | Yes |
| Toe Box Shape | Pointed | Pointed |
| Heel Cup | Aggressive | Moderate |
| Weight | 180g | 190g |
| Level of Ventilation | Low | High |
Fit
When it comes to fit, the Scarpa Chimera and the Instinct both offer a slipper-like fit. This means they are both extremely comfortable while still providing the needed support and precision. The difference between the two models is that the Chimera is a lower volume design and has a narrower fit, while the Instinct has a higher volume design and is generally considered to be wider. This is important to consider when deciding which shoe to purchase as it will depend on the shape of your foot.
The Chimera is also a unisex shoe, while the Instinct is offered in both men’s and women’s models. This allows for a more customised fit, depending on the wearer’s gender. The Instinct also has a slightly different shape, with a more pointed toe box, which may be better suited for those with narrower feet.
The Scarpa Chimera and the Instinct both have a velcro closure system, which makes them quick and easy to put on and take off. This also allows for a more customised fit as the straps can be adjusted as needed.
Type of Climbing
The Scarpa Chimera is designed for bouldering, while the Instinct is better suited for all-round climbing. The Chimera has less rubber coverage on the sole, making it better suited for technical moves on overhangs or steep faces. The Instinct, on the other hand, has a stiffer sole and more rubber coverage, making it better suited for long routes and edging.
The Instinct is also designed with a more rounded toe, making it better suited for slab routes where precision foot placements are important.
The Chimera is also better suited for crack climbing, as it is designed with a leather and suede upper, which gives it a more comfortable fit. The Instinct is designed with a synthetic upper, which makes it more durable and resistant to wear and tear, but not as comfortable as the Chimera in cracks.
Sole Stiffness
The sole stiffness of the Scarpa Chimera and the Instinct vary. The Chimera has a soft sole, which is designed to be sensitive and provide a good grip on the rock. The Instinct, on the other hand, has a stiffer sole, which is designed to provide more support and stability while edging.
The soft sole of the Chimera allows the wearer to feel the rock better, which is great for bouldering, but the stiffer sole of the Instinct is more suitable for long routes and edging.
Shape
The Scarpa Chimera and the Instinct have different shapes. The Chimera is designed with an asymmetric shape, which allows for a more natural fit and greater precision. The Instinct, on the other hand, is designed with a more traditional, symmetric shape.
The asymmetric shape of the Chimera is designed to follow the natural shape of the foot, providing a more comfortable fit and greater precision. The symmetric shape of the Instinct is designed to provide more support and stability while edging, which is important for long routes.
Closure System
The Scarpa Chimera and the Instinct both have a velcro closure system, which makes them quick and easy to put on and take off. This also allows for a more customised fit as the straps can be adjusted as needed.
The Instinct also has an added lace-up closure system, which is designed to provide an even more customised fit. This is great for those who want a more secure fit, but the downside is that it takes longer to put on and take off.
Materials
The Scarpa Chimera and the Instinct both have different materials. The Chimera is designed with a leather and suede upper, which gives it a more comfortable fit. The Instinct, on the other hand, is designed with a synthetic upper, which makes it more durable and resistant to wear and tear, but not as comfortable as the Chimera.
The Chimera also has a softer midsole which provides better cushioning and shock absorption, while the Instinct has a stiffer midsole which is designed to provide more support and stability.
Price
Personal Preference
As with any shoe, personal preference plays a large role in deciding which one to purchase. It’s important to consider the features of each shoe and which features are more important to you. If you are looking for a comfortable fit, then the Chimera is the better choice, while the Instinct is better suited for long routes and edging.
Toe Box Shape
The Scarpa Chimera and the Instinct both have a pointed toe box, which is designed to provide greater precision while edging. The shape of the toe box may also be a personal preference, with some climbers preferring a more rounded toe box.
Heel Cup
The heel cup of the Scarpa Chimera and the Instinct also vary. The Chimera has an aggressive heel cup, which is designed to provide a secure fit and prevent heel slip. The Instinct, on the other hand, has a more moderate heel cup, which is better suited for those who prefer a more relaxed fit.
Weight
The Scarpa Chimera and the Instinct both have a lightweight design, weighing in at 180g and 190g, respectively. This makes them both great for long routes and approaches.
Level of Ventilation
The level of ventilation of the Scarpa Chimera and the Instinct vary. The Chimera has a low level of ventilation, which is great for colder conditions, but may not be ideal for warmer weather. The Instinct, on the other hand, has a high level of ventilation, making it better suited for warmer days.
Conclusion
In conclusion, the Scarpa Chimera and the Instinct are both great climbing shoes with different features, design, and performance. The Chimera is better suited for bouldering and has a more comfortable fit, while the Instinct is better suited for long routes and edging. It’s important to consider the features of each shoe and which features are more important to you before making your decision.