Scarpa Origin Vs Black Diamond Momentum
Comparing the Scarpa Origin and the Black Diamond Momentum
The Scarpa Origin and the Black Diamond Momentum are two popular climbing shoes that offer climbers a different set of features. While the Origin is a traditionally-lasted shoe with a flat profile and a Velcro closure system, the Momentum is a semi-symmetrical, downturned shoe with a lace-up closure system. Both shoes are highly regarded among climbers, but which one is right for you?
In this article, we will compare the two shoes in several areas, including fit, type of climbing, sole stiffness, shape, closure system, materials, price, personal preference, toe box shape, heel cup, weight, and level of ventilation.
Comparison Table
| Scarpa Origin | Black Diamond Momentum |
|---|---|
| Flat, traditionally-lasted fit | Semi-symmetrical, downturned fit |
| Traditional climbing, multi-pitch routes, gym climbing | Hard sport climbing, bouldering |
| Medium-stiff sole | Stiff sole |
| Flat, traditionally-lasted shape | Semi-symmetrical, downturned shape |
| Velcro closure system | Lace-up closure system |
| Synthetic leather upper | Leather and synthetic materials |
| MSRP: around $130 | MSRP: around $160 |
| Flat, traditionally-lasted toe box | Downturned toe box |
| Traditionally-lasted heel cup | Asymmetrical, downturned heel cup |
| Weight: 8.7 oz | Weight: 9.5 oz |
| Good ventilation | Good ventilation |
Fit
The Scarpa Origin has a flat profile and a traditionally-lasted fit. This means that it follows the natural contours of your foot better than the Momentum, providing superior comfort and support. The Origin’s flat profile also makes it easier to size the shoe, since you don’t need to account for a downturn or asymmetrical shape.
The Black Diamond Momentum has a semi-symmetrical fit and a slightly downturned profile. This gives it a snugger, more performance-oriented fit that is ideal for technical climbing. The Momentum’s downturned shape also makes it easier to apply pressure to the toe while edging.
Type of Climbing
The Scarpa Origin is best suited for traditional climbing, multi-pitch routes, and gym climbing. Its flat profile makes it more comfortable for long days on the rock, and its Velcro closure system allows for a quick and easy on-and-off.
The Black Diamond Momentum excels at hard sport climbing and bouldering. Its downturned shape and lace-up closure system make it easier to scum and heel hook, allowing for more precise and aggressive movement.
Sole Stiffness
The Scarpa Origin has a medium-stiff sole. Its midsole is stiff enough to provide edging power, but not so stiff that it makes smearing uncomfortable. The Origin’s sole also has good rubber, which provides great grip on a variety of different surfaces.
The Black Diamond Momentum has a stiff sole. Its midsole is designed to provide maximum edging power, and its rubber is designed for optimal grip on small holds. The Momentum’s sole stiffness makes it more difficult to smear, so it’s best suited for technical climbing and bouldering.
Shape
The Scarpa Origin has a flat, traditionally-lasted shape. This makes it comfortable for long days on the rock and easy to size. The Origin’s shape also makes it great for technical slab climbing.
The Black Diamond Momentum has a semi-symmetrical, downturned shape. This shape is ideal for hard sport climbing and bouldering. The Momentum’s shape also makes it easier to heel hook and smear.
Closure System
The Scarpa Origin has a Velcro closure system. This provides a secure fit and allows for a quick and easy on-and-off.
The Black Diamond Momentum has a lace-up closure system. The laces allow for a more precise fit, but make it more difficult to put the shoe on and take it off.
Materials
The Scarpa Origin is made of synthetic leather, which is a durable, breathable material. The upper also has a rubber rand to provide extra protection and durability.
The Black Diamond Momentum is made of a combination of leather and synthetic materials. The leather is durable and breathable, while the synthetic materials provide extra support and protection.
Price
The Scarpa Origin has an MSRP of around $130. This makes it an affordable option for climbers of all budgets.The Black Diamond Momentum has an MSRP of around $160. This makes it more expensive than the Origin, but still within reach for most climbers.
Personal Preference
At the end of the day, the choice between the Scarpa Origin and Black Diamond Momentum comes down to personal preference. Some climbers prefer the flat, traditionally-lasted fit of the Origin, while others prefer the semi-symmetrical, downturned shape of the Momentum.
Toe Box Shape
The Scarpa Origin has a flat, traditionally-lasted toe box. This makes it comfortable for long days on the rock and easier to size.
The Black Diamond Momentum has a downturned toe box. This gives it a performance-oriented fit and makes it easier to apply pressure to the toe while edging.
Heel Cup
The Scarpa Origin has a traditionally-lasted heel cup. This provides a secure and comfortable fit, and prevents slippage.
The Black Diamond Momentum has an asymmetrical, downturned heel cup. This gives it a snugger fit and helps keep your foot in place when heel hooking.
Weight
The Scarpa Origin weighs in at 8.7 ounces. This makes it light enough for long days on the rock, but still substantial enough to provide support and durability.
The Black Diamond Momentum weighs in at 9.5 ounces. This makes it slightly heavier than the Origin, but it’s still light enough for long sessions at the crag.
Level of Ventilation
The Scarpa Origin has good ventilation. Its synthetic leather upper is breathable and allows your feet to stay cool and comfortable while climbing.
The Black Diamond Momentum also has good ventilation. Its combination of leather and synthetic materials provides good breathability, while the lace-up closure system allows you to adjust the fit to your liking.
Conclusion
The Scarpa Origin and the Black Diamond Momentum are two popular climbing shoes that offer climbers a different set of features. The Origin is a traditionally-lasted shoe with a flat profile and a Velcro closure system, while the Momentum is a semi-symmetrical, downturned shoe with a lace-up closure system. Each shoe has its own unique set of features, and it’s up to the individual climber to decide which one is right for them. In any case, both shoes are excellent options for climbers of all levels.